How to Teach a Dog to Shake Paws

Looking for something new to teach your dog? Interested in a simple, low-stakes intro the trick training world? Trying to show off your pup's smarts the next time you have dinner guests? “Shake” could be the perfect skill for your four-legged friend to learn!

Here’s everything you need to know about teaching your dog to offer their paw on cue:

• Why shake is a great basic trick
• Supplies you need in order to train your dog
• A step-by-step process to follow
• Plus some troubleshooting help at the end

Let's dive in!

Why teach your dog to shake?

“Shake” or “give paw” is a classic dog trick. It's often one of the first fun behaviors new pet parents teach. Shake is a crowd pleaser for both adults and kids—and it can even help your dog become more comfortable having their feet handled! (Paws are often a sensitive part of a canine's body.)

What’s more? Shake tends to be a very simple trick to learn. It doesn’t require advanced skills for either dog or handler. That means your pup doesn’t need to have a long training history to figure it out! They can also get by without expert balance or other physical capabilities that advanced tricks might require.

Shake is the perfect introduction to the world of trick training.

Trick training has many benefits:

• There is usually less pressure (on both dog and owner) in trick training sessions compared with behavior modification or standard obedience training. This makes it a great opportunity to bond with your dog. Have fun together!
• Trick training concepts translate well into other areas of life with your companion. Spending time learning cool things together teaches your dog to pay attention to you. You get to practice working as a team—even if the behaviors themselves don’t seem that “necessary” for your day-to-day routines.
• Trick training can be a great enrichment activity. Your dog needs mental stimulation along with physical exercise! You can learn more about canine enrichment in our comprehensive guide here.
• If you get really into it, you can earn trick dog titles for your dog through organizations like the American Kennel Club or Do More With Your Dog. This isn’t a requirement—but the incentive of real certificates can provide extra motivation (and a nice sense of accomplishment).

You might choose to teach "shake" specifically because:

• Training your dog to offer their paw as a fun trick can help them form a positive association with their feet being picked up and held. This comfort can come in handy for a range of grooming tasks: filing or trimming their nails, applying paw balm or wax, removing splinters or other debris that might get stuck on your adventures, wiping their feet before letting them back inside your home, and more.
• Some dogs are more comfortable performing a trick for someone they’ve just met than being smothered with physical affection. Shake can be a simple, low-key behavior to give both your dog and new friends a good experience right off the bat! (Important note: Always listen to your individual dog. If your pup is deeply scared of strangers, we don't recommend using trick training like this to overcome that big fear. Shake can be too much for a shy dog's comfort. Instead, work with a private trainer to slowly and safely build new positive associations before jumping into new friendships.)

What you need to teach your dog to shake their paw

1) A reinforcer (like treats or a favorite toy)

When we ask our dogs to work for us, it’s only fair we “pay” them for their efforts. Reinforcers—often called rewards in everyday conversation—are:

• things our dogs love
• that are easy for us to give them during a training session.

Common reinforcers include:

• Store-bought training treats
• Homemade dog treats
• Small pieces of human food (such as meat or cheese)
• Your dog’s kibble (if they’re particularly food motivated, have a sensitive stomach, or you need to be calorie conscious)
• A favorite toy
• Your own physical affection
• Verbal praise (This can be incredibly motivating for some dogs—but it's harder to use as a lure for teaching tricks. We recommend a training approach where you pair verbal praise with another chosen reinforcer for the best results!)

If possible, let your dog decide what they like best. Consider setting out multiple rewards, seeing which one they go to first, and choosing that to teach new behaviors. (You can also vary between a few favorites to keep them interested.)

The more excited your dog is for their reinforcer, the more motivated they’ll be during your training session. You can read more about reinforcement and operant conditioning in our Dog Training 101 article. It’s a great introduction to all things technical when it comes to working with our pets.

A conditioned reward marker

If you’ve heard of “clicker training” (first popularized by marine mammal trainers) then you’ve been exposed to the idea of a reward marker.

In technical terms, a marker is a conditioned stimulus that predicts a primary reinforcer. Put in plain English? A reward marker is a sound or signal that “marks” exactly what your dog did to earn their reinforcement.

Reward markers make it possible for us to communicate clearly during training sessions—even if we’re unable to deliver a treat precisely when our dogs offer the right behavior.

Common reward markers include:

• Clickers
• “Yes”
• “Good”
• A thumbs up (particularly useful for deaf dogs)
• A hand flash (push all your fingers on one hand together, then open them up quickly, and close again—again, this is a very distinct signal for deaf dogs)
• Other easy-to-make noises

No marker is inherently better than the others for all dogs and all situations. What matters is that you pick one that works for you—and that you stick to it! Consistency is key. (One exception here: It can be a good idea to use one verbal marker and one clicker marker in case you ever find yourself without your clicker on hand.)

How to charge your reward marker

To make sure your dog understands that your marker sound or signal predicts a reward, spend a few training sessions conditioning them to the stimulus. (If you already use reward markers in your training, skip on to the next section.)

Here's how to charge your dog’s reward marker.

• First make your marker noise or visual signal.
• Pause for a (literal) second.
• Give your dog their reward. This turns your chosen marker into a predictor of good things to come!
• Repeat multiple times.

Eventually your dog will start to respond to the noise itself. They might run towards you before you even reach for their treat or toy! This is a great sign they’re forming the right association.

How to use your reward marker in a training session

Once your dog is conditioned to your chosen reward marker, you can start using it in training sessions. Now the fun of teaching new skills begins!

It’s important to mark the right behavior the instant your dog performs it. Accurate timing makes for more effective teaching. Remember to always follow your marker with a reward—you have about 1.5 to 3 seconds to deliver reinforcement, give or take, to keep up your dog’s conditioned association.

2) An already learned sit cue

This isn’t strictly necessary to teach your dog to shake. Some pets are able to pick up on the "give paw" behavior without being specifically asked to sit first. But a stable sitting position can help a lot.

You can read more in our blog on training your dog to sit here!

3) A quiet, calm environment

Dogs pay a lot of attention to the world around them. Their sensitive ears and noses are especially affected in loud, busy situations! This can make it hard for them to focus on learning new things.

When teaching your dog to shake (or asking them to learn any new skill at all) it’s a good idea to start in a calm, familiar environment. Some great options are:

• An open room of your house
• Your own yard
• A favorite Sniffspot that you visit regularly (so your dog is comfortable there and used to any distractions)

4) Patience

Before working with your dog, make sure you’re in a good headspace. It’s not always easy to communicate with another species. Even basic tricks like offering their paw on cue can confuse our pets at first!

Be prepared to take things slowly. Make your training sessions upbeat. Offer lots of praise and affection when your dog makes an effort—and keep your asks simple to get more buy-in from your dog, especially if they are an adolescent.

Above all: Remember trick training is meant to be fun. Shaking on cue should be a positive way to bond with your dog—not a source of stress. (That doesn’t mean you’ll never get frustrated or wish things were moving faster. We’re only human! Just be aware of your emotions. Try to stay focused on what matters most: spending time with your furry best friend.)

Simple steps to train your dog to shake paws

Now that we’ve gone over the foundation of what you need to get started, you and your dog are ready to get shaking (literally).

Here are the nitty gritty details to teach your pup to shake hands or give their paw!

Ask your dog to sit

First, give your dog their known “sit” cue. This puts them in the perfect position to lift one of their paws without feeling off balance (which can happen if they stay standing).

You can read more in our blog on training your dog to sit here!

Get your dog’s focus with their favorite treat or toy

Next, hold your chosen reinforcer in front of your dog’s face. Make sure to get their attention.

Small treats work especially well for this if you’re able to hold them tightly between your fingers or in your palm (with a closed fist) so your dog can’t get their reward out until you allow them to! This is often called a lure.

Hold your treat or toy hand in front of your dog

Deliberately hold your fist, closed tightly around your chosen reinforcer, in front of your dog at about their chest level. 

At this point, most pets will naturally nose or paw at your hand in an attempt to get their reward.

Mark and reward!

When your dog lifts their paw in the air to reach towards your fist, mark with your reward marker discussed above and then give them the treat or toy! Then go back to the previous step. Repeat a few times, remembering that effective training always ends on a positive note.

If your pup is struggling to use their feet instead of their snout—or they seem overly stressed—consider marking and rewarding them for smaller steps towards the desired end behavior. For example: If you notice your dog shifting their weight from one front paw to the other, even if their foot doesn’t actually get high in the air, reinforce that!

This method of breaking things down can make trick training a lot easier for dogs who are prone to get discouraged. As time goes on, you can wait to reward them for closer and closer increments to the desired end behavior. Professional dog trainers call this process rewarding successive approximations.

Add a visual cue (hand signal)

Once your dog seems to be getting it—they reliably respond to your raised hand or even offer the shake behavior on their own because they’ve learned it gets them treats—it’s time to add a visual cue.

You might reach this point after just a couple of training sessions, or it might take longer. Trick training has no set timeline. Everything depends on your individual dog and previous training experience!

Since most dogs learn to shake by pawing at a reward in front of them, your hand signal will likely end up as a natural shortening or smaller version of that hand lure—just without the treat inside and perhaps an open palm instead of a closed fist.

To start fading your lure in favor of a visual cue:

• Test the waters by holding your hand up without a treat inside. Does your dog offer their paw? Fantastic! If they instead seem confused, go back to your lure for now and try again in another session.
• Once your dog can paw at your hand without a treat, slowly start shifting from a closed fist to an open palm (or whatever exact hand position you want to indicate to them to give their paw).
• Always mark and reward correct repetitions!
• Don’t be afraid to take steps back in the process if either of you gets frustrated.
• Eventually your dog will be able to shake on just your visual cue.

(Most dogs find it easier to pay attention to our body movements than our words, but that isn’t a hard-and-fast rule. If you know your dog is particularly verbal and want to skip the hand signal to go right to a verbal cue, feel free! Just remember to change things up if your pup is struggling. Some dogs will get so frustrated they check out completely.)

Add a verbal cue (often previously called a verbal command)

To add a verbal cue, pair your new learned behavior stimulus—the word “shake” or “paw” or whatever you choose—with your dog’s already-known hand signal:

• Say “shake”
• Pause for just a breath, then immediately give your visual cue (likely an open palm in front of your dog’s chest)
• If your dog responds, mark and reward!
• Repeat several times
• Eventually your dog will start to shake right when they hear your verbal instead of waiting for the hand signal
• Celebrate them when they do!

Some dogs have a difficult time separating the pieces of a training picture from each other. If your dog is struggling to learn a verbal cue, make sure:

• You do not give the verbal at the exact same time as the hand signal. If you do, your dog might “tune out” the sound in favor of paying attention to your motion.
• You don’t wait too long to give your hand signal after saying your verbal. You want just enough of a pause that your dog separates out the cues—but not so much that they can’t make the connection.

Troubleshoot problems teaching your dog to shake

Having a hard time teaching your dog to shake? Here are some common issues to think about. Remember that every animal is different. You might need to vary your training approach from dog to dog in order to get the correct behavior!

Is your dog experiencing physical pain or discomfort?

Some pups hesitate to shake or offer similar behaviors on cue because it’s uncomfortable for them. This pain could be due to arthritis, an acute injury (like a pulled muscle), or chronic health conditions.

Your dog might also be uncomfortable with their feet being grabbed. Some four-legged friends would prefer you to merely reach towards their paw rather than actually holding it in your own hand.

If you notice that your dog is stiff or seems stressed in your sessions—especially if they used to move more willingly and now seem reluctant—consider visiting your veterinarian for a pain assessment. They’ll help you come up with a treatment plan to get back in the training groove!

Does your dog understand what you’re asking for?

Our dogs experience the world differently than we do. Sometimes we think we’re communicating one thing when they’re actually perceiving another.

If your dog seems confused about shaking on cue even after multiple short, upbeat training sessions:

• Make sure you always use the same visual and verbal cues.
• Get everyone in your household on the same page about what signals and words to use for different behaviors.
• Be aware of other subtle body movements that might confuse your dog.
• Practice giving your reward markers on your own, without your dog around, to build muscle memory.
• Video your sessions so you can evaluate your marker and reward timing.
• Make sure you aren’t asking your dog to perform in unfamiliar environments or situations before they’re ready.

When in doubt, get help from a professional dog trainer

It’s what trainers are here for!

If you and your dog are struggling to polish up their “shake” cue—or any other tricks or obedience skills— reach out to a force-free professional trainer who can work with you one on one. You might also enjoy taking a group trick training class.

Trainer Review of this Article

There is so much misinformation out there, and we want to make sure we only provide the highest quality information to our community. We have all of our articles reviewed by qualified, positive-only trainers.  

This is the trainer that reviewed this article:

Kaia Wilson
CPDT-KA, Owner - Dogspeed Training
[email protected]  dogspeed.dog
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