How to Teach a Dog to Sit

Sitting on cue is one of the most common basic obedience training skills — and for good reason! “Sit” is a simple, versatile behavior that can make it easier to live with your dog when they know it well.

Just because it’s a common position doesn’t mean teaching this skill is always a cake walk, though. We’ve put together a guide outlining how to train your dog to sit on cue and troubleshoot common issues along the way.

Let’s dive in!

Why teach your dog to sit?

The ability to sit on cue comes in handy in real-life scenarios

Sit is a great position for your dog to be in when you:

• Chat with your neighbor on the sidewalk
• Greet guests inside your home
• Want your companion to be still for a moment in a busy environment
• And so on

Holding an upright sitting position for different periods of time can also be good for building your dog's core strength.

Sit can be a basic dog training foundation for more advanced (and fun) behaviors

What's more — a solid knowledge of how to sit when asked sets your dog up to learn more advanced skills! These include tricks like shake, sit pretty, holding objects in their mouth (it's easier for many dogs to do this when they're stationary in a seated position) and more.

Sit is naturally a more relaxed posture than a standing position but is more active than lying down, which makes it ideal for situations where you want your dog to be still for a short time while still feeling like they can easily get up and move again. Down, on the other hand, is often ideal for distance stays!

What you need in order to teach your dog to sit

A reinforcer (like treats or a favorite toy)

When we ask our dogs to work for us, it’s only fair we “pay” them for their efforts. Reinforcers (often called rewards in everyday conversation) are things 1) our dogs love that 2) are easy for us to give them during a training session.

Common reinforcers include:

• Store-bought dog treats
• Small pieces of human food (like meat or cheese)
• Your dog’s kibble (if they’re particularly food motivated, have a sensitive stomach, or you need to be calorie conscious)
• A favorite toy

If possible, let your dog decide what they like best. Consider setting out multiple toy and treat rewards, seeing which one they go to first, and choosing that to teach new behaviors! (You can also vary between a few favorites to keep them interested.) The more excited your dog is for their reinforcer, the more motivated they'll be during your training session.

The more excited your dog is for their reinforcer, the more motivated they’ll be during your training session.

You can read more about reinforcement and operant conditioning in our Dog Training 101 article! It’s a great introduction to all things technical when it comes to working with our pets.

A conditioned reward marker

If you’ve heard of “clicker training” (first popularized by marine mammal trainers) then you’ve been exposed to the idea of a reward marker.

In technical terms, a marker is a conditioned stimulus that predicts a primary reinforcer. Put more simply? A reward marker is a sound or signal that “marks” exactly what your dog did to earn their reinforcement. This makes it possible for us to communicate clearly during training sessions — even if we’re unable to deliver a treat precisely when our dogs offer the right behavior.

Common reward markers include:

• Clickers
• “Yes”
• “Good”
• A thumbs up (particularly useful for deaf dogs)
• A hand flash (push all your fingers on one hand together, then open them up quickly, and close again — very distinct for deaf dogs)
• Other easy-to-make noises

No marker is inherently better than the others for all dogs and situations. What matters is that you pick one that works for you and stick to it! Consistency is key.

How to charge your reward marker

To make sure your dog understands that your marker sound or signal predicts a reward, spend a few sessions conditioning them to the stimulus. (If you already use reward markers in your training, skip on to the next section.)

You can charge your dog’s reward marker by:

• First making your noise or visual signal
• Pausing for a second
• Then giving your dog their reward — this turns your chosen marker into a predictor of good things to come
• Repeating multiple times!

Eventually your dog will start to respond to the noise itself. They might run towards you before you even reach for their treat or toy! This is a great sign that indicates they’re forming the right association.

How to use your reward marker in a training session

Once your dog is conditioned to your chosen reward marker, you can start using it in training sessions to teach new skills.

It’s important to mark the right behavior the instant your dog performs it. Accurate timing makes for more effective teaching! And remember to always follow your marker with a reward — you have about 1.5 to 3 seconds to deliver reinforcement, give or take, to keep up your dog’s conditioned association.

A quiet, calm environment

Dogs pay a lot of attention to the world around them. Their sensitive ears and noses are especially affected in loud, busy situations. This can make it hard for them to focus on learning new things.

When teaching your dog to sit (or asking them to learn any new skill at all) it’s a good idea to start in a calm, familiar environment with limited distractions. An open room of your house, your own yard, or a favorite Sniffspot that you visit regularly (so your dog is comfortable there and used to any stimuli that might shorten their attention span) can be great options.

Patience

Before working with your dog, make sure you’re in a good headspace. It’s not always easy to communicate with another species. Even simple behaviors like sitting on cue can confuse our pets at first!

Be prepared to take things slowly and keep your training sessions upbeat. Offer lots of praise and affection when your dog makes an effort — and keep things simple to get more buy-in from your dog, especially if they are an adolescent.

Above all: Remember that while training is important to live a harmonious life with your dog, it’s also meant to be fun. Learning to sit isn’t the end of the world and should be a process where you bond with your dog, not one that makes you both feel stressed out. (That doesn’t mean you’ll never get frustrated or wish things were moving faster. We’re only human! Just be aware of your emotions and try to stay focused on what matters most: spending time with your best friend and building valuable skills over time.)

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Steps to train your dog to sit on cue

Now that we’ve gone over the foundation of what you need to get started, you and your dog are ready to get moving (or should we say, sitting). Here are the nitty gritty details to teach your pup to sit on cue!

Train sit by luring your dog into position

Luring is the most common method to teach our dogs new skills — it’s especially great for pets who are easily distracted or crave constant feedback from their owners.

Here's how to teach your dog to sit using a food lure:

• Start by holding your dog’s reward (a high value training treat or favorite toy) in your hand. You can put it in your palm or between your fingers, depending on the size and intensity of your dog.
• Your dog can be in either a standing or lying down position to begin with. Many dogs learn sit before they learn down, so owners just lure from whatever stance their dog naturally takes. Some dogs have an easier time starting in a defined stand or down, though, so don’t be afraid to experiment.
• Slowly lift the toy or treat lure in front of your dog's nose, over their head.
• As your dog follows your hand with their eyes, their face should tilt back — and their rump naturally lowers to the ground.
• The second your dog’s butt hits the floor, mark and reward!
• To get your pup standing again, you can toss another treat off to the side. This is a win-win that helps them reset for your next repetition while keeping them excited about earning more rewards.
• Repeat the first steps to get your dog to sit again, marking and rewarding each time, until your dog begins anticipating the movement of the lure and moves into position more quickly.
• If your dog is reluctant to follow the lure at all, try practicing in a separate session. Reward them for keeping their nose near your hand, even if it’s just small movements at first. Don’t be afraid of taking baby steps — eventually they’ll start to understand that following the lure leads to reinforcement!

Teach sit by capturing your dog’s offered behaviors

Capturing your dog’s offered behaviors, and then shaping them into the final picture you want, is another way you can teach your dog to sit on cue. These sessions tend to be more mentally draining than luring, making them a great option for dogs with excess energy!

Capturing can be frustrating for pets who are anxious or insecure, though, so remember to pay attention to your dog’s body language and change things up if they seem stressed.

Here’s how to shape your dog’s sit position:

• Have your reward and marker ready.
• Consider giving your dog a cue that it’s time to start shaping. This can be helpful to avoid confusion about when you want them to offer behaviors and when you don’t! (This clarity matters most for trick training where your pup might start throwing out everything they’ve ever learned, but it can be helpful with basic obedience skills too.)
• Wait until your dog sits on their own. Many pets do this naturally if nothing has been happening for a while or they aren’t sure what to do next.
• At the exact moment they do, mark and reward!
• If they get “stuck” in the sit position, toss a training treat off to the side for them to retrieve. This can help them reset so they’re able to offer another repetition.
• Repeat until they start to realize that sitting in front of you gets them a reward!

If your dog doesn’t offer you a sit position, you can do a few things:

1. Make sure the surface is comfortable. Your dog might be reluctant to sit if the ground is too hard, cold, or hot — you can always work on a soft rug or blanket to make things easier.
2. If changing the surface doesn’t help, consider using the luring method instead.
3. If you’re really committed to shaping, mark and reward small movements towards the desired behavior instead of waiting for the completed position. For example, you could mark if your dog starts to adjust their weight on their back legs — and then slowly increase your criteria over time. This can be a complicated (and sometimes confusing) process, but it can also be really fun if you and your dog are into it!

Add a visual cue (hand signal)

Once your dog seems to be getting it — reliably responding to your raised hand or even offering the sit behavior on their own because they’ve learned it gets them treats — it’s time to add a visual cue.

Since most dogs learn to sit by pawing at a reward in front of them, your hand signal will likely end up as a natural shortening, or smaller version, of that hand lure (just without the treat inside and perhaps an open palm or pointed finger instead of a closed fist).

To start fading your lure in favor of a visual cue:

• Test the waters by holding your hand up without a treat inside and moving it over your dog’s head. Do they still sit? Fantastic! If they instead seem confused, go back to your lure for now and try again in another session.
• Once your dog can sit in response to your lure hand without a treat, slowly start shifting from a closed fist to an open palm or pointed finger (or whatever exact hand position you want to indicate to them to give their paw).
• Always mark and reward correct repetitions!
• Don’t be afraid to take steps back in the process if either of you gets frustrated.
• Eventually your dog will be able to sit on just your visual cue.

(Most dogs find it easier to pay attention to our body movements than our words, but that isn’t a hard-and-fast rule. If you know your dog is particularly verbal and want to skip the hand signal to go right to a verbal cue, feel free! Just remember to change things up if your pup is struggling, as some dogs will get so frustrated they check out completely.)

Add a verbal cue (often previously referred to as a command)

To add a verbal cue, pair your new learned behavior stimulus — the word “sit” or whatever you choose — with your dog’s already-known hand signal:

• Say “sit”
• Pause for just a breath, then immediately give your visual cue
• If your dog responds, mark and reward!
• Repeat several times
• Eventually your dog will start to sit right when they hear your verbal instead of waiting for the hand signal
• Celebrate them when they do!

Some dogs have a difficult time separating the pieces of a training picture from each other. If your dog is struggling to learn a verbal cue, make sure:

• You don’t give the verbal at the exact same time as the hand signal. If you do, your dog might “tune out” the sound in favor of paying attention to your motion.
• You don’t wait too long to give your hand signal after saying your verbal. You want just enough of a pause that your dog separates out the cues — but not so much that they can’t make the connection.

What not to do to teach your dog to sit

Never push your dog's butt to the floor with force. This aversive training technique not only risks causing physical pain, but it can be frightening for your pup and end up eroding your bond instead of building it.

Troubleshoot problems teaching your dog to sit

Here are some common issues to think about if you’re having a hard time teaching your dog to sit.

Is your dog experiencing physical pain or discomfort?

Some pups hesitate to sit, lie down, or offer similar behaviors on cue because it’s uncomfortable for them due to arthritis, an acute injury (like a pulled muscle), or chronic health conditions.

If you notice that your dog is stiff or seems stressed in your sessions — especially if they used to move more willingly and now seem reluctant — consider visiting your veterinarian for a pain assessment. They’ll help you come up with a treatment plan to get back in the training groove!

Does your dog understand what you’re asking for?

Our dogs experience the world differently than we do. Sometimes we think we’re communicating one thing when they’re actually perceiving another.

If your dog seems confused about shaking on cue even after multiple short, upbeat training sessions, try to:

• Make sure you always use the same visual and verbal cues.
• Get everyone in your household on the same page about what signals and words to use for different behaviors. Consistent training yields the best results!
• Be aware of other subtle body movements that might confuse your dog.
• Practice giving your reward markers on your own, without your dog around, to build muscle memory.
• Video your sessions so you can evaluate your marker and reward timing.
• Make sure you aren't asking your dog to perform in unfamiliar training environments or situations before they're ready.

When in doubt, get help from a professional

It’s what trainers are here for! If you and your dog are struggling to polish up their “sit” cue or any other tricks or obedience skills, reach out to a force-free professional trainer who can work with you in one-to-one training sessions. Personalized training is a great way to take your dog's training repertoire to the next level.

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Generalize your dog’s new skill in different contexts

You’ve followed these steps, and after several training sessions your dog can reliably sit on cue inside your home. Yay — your work is over, right?

Well, not quite.

Dogs often struggle to generalize behaviors. This means they might be able to Dogs often struggle to generalize behaviors. This means they might be able to follow basic cues in a familiar training environment but still struggle to perform out and about. Don't worry: This is completely normal, and it doesn't mean anything is wrong with your training! It just means your dog needs more practice to understand that “sit” always means to sit, regardless of where they are.

Here are some helpful tips for generalizing, or proofing, your dog’s new sit cue:

• The first time you ask your dog to sit in a new context, take a few steps back in your training process to make it easier for them. Use your hand signal (or even your lure) along with your verbal cue to set them up for success.
• Break new situations into baby steps. Instead of asking your dog to go from sitting while you stand in front of them in your living room to sitting while your back is turned at a busy park, separate your goals into bite-sized chunks — in the living room while you’re turned to the side, in your backyard, out on a walk, at a private Sniffspot, and so on.
• Make things more difficult slowly so your dog doesn’t get discouraged. You want to end your training sessions on a positive note, not with frustration!