Looking for something new to teach your dog? Interested in getting into the trick training world with a simple, low-stakes start? We’ve got you covered — “shake” is the perfect thing to learn!
Here’s everything you need to know about teaching your dog to offer their paw on cue, including why it’s a great trick, what you need in order to train it, a step-by-step process to follow, and some troubleshooting help at the end.
“Shake” or “give paw” is a classic dog trick, often one of the first fun behaviors new pet parents teach their pups. It’s a crowd pleaser for both adults and kids — and it can even help your dog become more comfortable with having their feet handled, since paws are often a sensitive part of their body they don’t naturally enjoy being grabbed.
What’s more? Shake tends to be a very simple trick to learn and doesn’t require advanced skills for either dog or handler — your pup doesn’t need to have particularly great balance or a long training history to figure it out. It’s a perfect introduction to the world of trick training.
When we ask our dogs to work for us, it’s only fair we “pay” them for their efforts. Reinforcers (often called rewards in everyday conversation) are things 1) our dogs love that 2) are easy for us to give them during a training session.
Common reinforcers include:
If possible, let your dog decide what they like best. Consider setting out multiple rewards, seeing which one they go to first, and choosing that to teach new behaviors! (You can also vary between a few favorites to keep them interested.)
The more excited your dog is for their reinforcer, the more motivated they’ll be during your training session.
A note on verbal praise: This can be incredibly motivating for some dogs but is harder to use as a lure for teaching tricks. We recommend a training approach where you pair verbal praise with your other chosen reinforcer!
You can read more about reinforcement and operant conditioning in our Dog Training 101 article! It’s a great introduction to all things technical when it comes to working with our pets.
If you’ve heard of “clicker training” (first popularized by marine mammal trainers) then you’ve been exposed to the idea of a reward marker.
In technical terms, a marker is a conditioned stimulus that predicts a primary reinforcer. Put more simply? A reward marker is a sound or signal that “marks” exactly what your dog did to earn their reinforcement. This makes it possible for us to communicate clearly during training sessions — even if we’re unable to deliver a treat precisely when our dogs offer the right behavior.
No marker is inherently better than the others for all dogs and situations. What matters is that you pick one that works for you and stick to it! Consistency is key. It can be a good idea to use one verbal marker and one clicker marker in case you ever find yourself without your clicker in a certain situation.
To make sure your dog understands that your marker sound or signal predicts a To make sure your dog understands that your marker sound or signal predicts a reward, spend a few training sessions conditioning them to the stimulus. (If you already use reward markers in your training, skip on to the next section.) You can charge your dog's reward marker by:
You can charge your dog’s reward marker by:
Eventually your dog will start to respond to the noise itself. They might run towards you before you even reach for their treat or toy! This is a great sign that indicates they’re forming the right association.
Once your dog is conditioned to your chosen reward marker, you can start using it in training sessions to teach new skills.
It’s important to mark the right behavior the instant your dog performs it. Accurate timing makes for more effective teaching! And remember to always follow your marker with a reward — you have about 1.5 to 3 seconds to deliver reinforcement, give or take, to keep up your dog’s conditioned association.
This isn’t strictly necessary to teach your dog to shake — some pets are able to pick it up without being specifically asked to sit first — but it can help a lot.
You can read more in our blog on training your dog to sit here!
Dogs pay a lot of attention to the world around them. Their sensitive ears and noses are especially affected in loud, busy situations. This can make it hard for them to focus on learning new things.
When teaching your dog to shake (or asking them to learn any new skill at all) it’s a good idea to start in a calm, familiar environment. An open room of your house, your own yard, or a favorite Sniffspot that you visit regularly (so your dog is comfortable there and used to any distractions) can be great options.
Before working with your dog, make sure you’re in a good headspace. It’s not always easy to communicate with another species. Even basic tricks like offering their paw on cue can confuse our pets at first!
Be prepared to take things slowly and keep your training sessions upbeat. Offer lots of praise and affection when your dog makes an effort — and keep things simple to get more buy-in from your dog, especially if they are an adolescent.
Above all: Remember that trick training is meant to be fun. It should be a positive way to bond with your dog rather than a source of stress for either of you. (That doesn’t mean you’ll never get frustrated or wish things were moving faster. We’re only human! Just be aware of your emotions and try to stay focused on what matters most: spending time with your furry best friend.)
Now that we’ve gone over the foundation of what you need to get started, you and your dog are ready to get shaking. Here are the nitty gritty details to teach your pup to shake hands or give their paw!
First, give your dog their known “sit” cue. This puts them in the perfect position to lift one of their paws without feeling off balance, which can happen if they stay standing.
You can read more in our blog on training your dog to sit here!
Next, hold your chosen reinforcer in front of your dog’s face, making sure to get their attention. Small treats work especially well for this if you’re able to hold them tightly between your fingers or in your palm (with a closed fist) so your dog can’t get it out until you allow them to! This is often called a lure.
Deliberately hold your fist, closed tightly around your chosen reinforcer, in front of your dog at about their chest level.
At this point, most pets will naturally nose or paw at your hand in an attempt to get their reward.
When your dog lifts their paw in the air to reach towards your fist, mark with your When your dog lifts their paw in the air to reach towards your fist, mark with your reward marker discussed above and then give them the treat or toy! Then go back to the previous step and repeat a few times, remembering that effective training always ends on a positive note.
If your pup is struggling to use their feet instead of their snout or seems overly stressed, consider marking and rewarding them for smaller steps towards the desired end behavior. For example, if you notice them shifting their weight from one front paw to the other, even if their foot doesn’t actually get high in the air, reinforce that. This method of breaking things down can make trick training a lot easier for dogs who are prone to get discouraged! As time goes on, you can wait to reward them for closer and closer increments to the desired end behavior.
Once your dog seems to be getting it — reliably responding to your raised hand or even offering the shake behavior on their own because they’ve learned it gets them treats — it’s time to add a visual cue. You might reach this point after just a couple of training sessions, or it might take longer depending on your individual dog and previous training experience.
Since most dogs learn to shake by pawing at a reward in front of them, your hand signal will likely end up as a natural shortening, or smaller version, of that hand lure (just without the treat inside and perhaps an open palm instead of a closed fist).
To start fading your lure in favor of a visual cue:
(Most dogs find it easier to pay attention to our body movements than our words, but that isn’t a hard-and-fast rule. If you know your dog is particularly verbal and want to skip the hand signal to go right to a verbal cue, feel free! Just remember to change things up if your pup is struggling, as some dogs will get so frustrated they check out completely.)
To add a verbal cue, pair your new learned behavior stimulus — the word “shake” or “paw” or whatever you choose — with your dog’s already-known hand signal:
Some dogs have a difficult time separating the pieces of a training picture from each other. If your dog is struggling to learn a verbal cue, make sure:
Here are some common issues to think about if you're having a hard time teaching your dog to shake. Your training approach might need to vary from dog to dog in order to get the correct behavior.
Some pups hesitate to shake or offer similar behaviors on cue because it’s uncomfortable for them due to arthritis, an acute injury (like a pulled muscle), or chronic health conditions. They might also be uncomfortable with their feet being grabbed and prefer that you merely reach towards their paw rather than actually holding it in your own hand.
If you notice that your dog is stiff or seems stressed in your sessions — especially if they used to move more willingly and now seem reluctant — consider visiting your veterinarian for a pain assessment. They’ll help you come up with a treatment plan to get back in the training groove!
Our dogs experience the world differently than we do. Sometimes we think we’re communicating one thing when they’re actually perceiving another.
If your dog seems confused about shaking on cue even after multiple short, upbeat training sessions, try to:
It’s what trainers are here for! If you and your dog are struggling to polish up their “shake” cue or any other tricks or obedience skills, reach out to a force-free professional trainer who can work with you one on one.
There is so much misinformation out there, we want to make sure we only provide the highest quality information to our community. We have all of our articles reviewed by qualified, positive-only trainers.
This is the trainer that reviewed this article:
Kaia Wilson
CPDT-KA, Owner - Dogspeed Training
kaia.dogspeed@gmail.com dogspeed.dog
Find us on instagram 🐕@dogspeedtraining
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